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With each block I am planning on adding elements. The first group will have straight lines. I use the same method for piecing the elements inside the circle – using the freezer paper as my template.
Block reverse (to print on freezer paper) Block 2 reverse
Here we go…
We are going to start easy with a solid circle.
Pick a fun print and go at it. This block repeated with different theme fabrics would make a fun quilt.
Download the file. Block 1
This block is the same in reverse so no extra template is needed. Confirm that your printer is not shrinking the block – it is a 5 inch square.
Pinning is a slow process but makes the sewing so fast. Remember the black block pice is placed on top of the circleStarting at the double arrows, place a pin through the black block piece and then through the circle. the ball of the pin will be on the outside of the block. Each time only concentrate on lining up the two short lines through at the sewing line and then move to the next. If you can not get it to “reach”, add an extra clip to relax the fabric. Once you have pinned all the way around the piece will lay flat again.
To start sewing you will need to match your thread and set the stitch length on your machine slightly larger. Do not go too large as the thread will start peeking around the edges after it is pieced.
I use an open piecing foot that allows easy visibility to my marked lines. Remember that you have marked you piecing line and you need to be able to see it. Start anywhere on the circle with a backstitch and then slowly sew from one pin to the next. Do not sew over pins as this can damage your needle/machine. I also backstitch at the end as well.
The last step is pressing. I use a small about of steam to press the seam. Remember that this is not ironing and you do not want to stretch out the block. However, if while sewing you make a small pleat, I little heavy steam and pressure usually presses it out. If needed an extra clip can also be added to the seam allowance.
Congratulations on piecing in your circle.
Curve piecing is one of my favorite things to do.
In that light I have decided to challenge myself to piecing one 5 inch circular block every week. As an incentive for me and to keep me somewhat accountable, I will be posting the blocks available for download to you. I do not know how many blocks that I will do – my goal is at least one fun quilt top. I hope you will join me on this project.
The first few posts will be a tutorial. I am always open to questions.
I have compiled a simple picture tutorial of how I piece circles.
There is a simple list of supplies that will be needed:
On the freezer paper template, Mark short straight lines through the black circle at about 1/2 inch increments. I also mark the center bottom of the circle with facing arrows or double lines to help me with picking the placement for my fabric and then lining the circle/block back up for piecing.
Cut the circle and block shape out of your freezer paper template. Do not cut all the way through the block shape to get to the circle, rather cut just the circle shape out.
Now it is time to pick your fabrics. I am using a pre-cut 5 inch stack for my blocks and a Tula Pink fat quarter bundle accented with solid fabric scraps for piecing my circles.
Your freezer paper templates are now going to be pressed (using a dry, hot iron) to the wrong side of the fabric. I love using the freezer paper because it is prepositional for several times if you are not happy with your initial placement of if you want to piece the same block several times.
Using your Crayola colored pencils, transfer all your marks to the fabric. You need to pick a color that you be able to see easily.
You are going to transfer the shape of your circles – which is now your sewing lines.
The short lines that were cut apart when you cut out the circle are where you will be pinning.
The facing arrows help you line up the circle to begin pinning.
Using a piece of sand-paper under your fabric helps a lot with marking.
After marking your fabric, it is time to trim. You are going to leave 1/4 inch around each shape – this is your seam allowance. This does not need to be a precise measurement. You need to have enough fabric to be able to piece, pin and that it will not fray, but too much of a seam allowance will make it difficult to piece and bulky.
There are some curve piecers that do not clip the seams but I do. I helps the process to be easier, more precise and in the end less ripping out. I clip only the blocks seam allowance. This is the pice that lays on top when pinning and piecing and needs to be eased. Clipping needs to be between the short marked lines and up close to but not through the seam line. You can always add some clips as you pin if you need more.
Here is some freezer paper that I found on amazon.
